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One of those "wish I could do it better" items that has sat on my cooking To-Do list for years is beans. I prefer for taste, nutrition and cost to work with dried beans, but I'm forever plagued by inconsistent results. Well, two books that I recently got seem to have removed most if not all of my worries. The books are Harold McGee's
Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes
and
The Science of Good Cooking
from Cook's Illustrated.
McGee is the author of On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, which is the go-to reference for culinary professionals, worldwide. Cook's Illustrated is a publishing arm of America's Test Kitchen, a 2,500 square foot test kitchen located just outside of Boston with more than three dozen full-time cooks and product testers.
Both Keys to Good Cooking and The Science of Good Cooking agree that the first step for any dried beans that require prolonged soaking is to brine them in a solution of 2 teaspoons (10ml) of salt per quart or liter of water. According to Cook's Illustrated, what happens is that the seed coat of beans is made up of pectin molecules which are cross connected by calcium and magnesium. The sodium in salt replaces some of the calcium atoms in the pectin matrix which makes up the seed coat, weakening the coat and allowing water to penetrate into the interior. Beans should be brined for a minimum of 8 hours and preferably over night.
The next step is to cook the beans long and slow to allow the interior to soften without breaking the coat. This is easiest done by bringing the beans to a very gentle simmer on the stovetop, and then putting them in an oven set to around 250°F (121°C). Keys and Science differ slightly in whether to add salt to the cooking water. Cook's Illustrated says to salt the water, whereas McGee says that salt won't hurt, but added to cooking water without pre-soaking, it can slow down water absorption. Both agree that acidic liquids, sugar and calcium can all keep the beans firm. For this reason, other ingredients, particularly tomatoes, molasses, sugar, etc., are added later in the cooking.
To do the pre-cook, drain the beans, place them in a dutch oven with an equal amount of water, by volume, and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cover and place in the oven for approximately 2 hours or until the beans are nearly cooked but still slightly al dente. If you want, you can add a bit of baking soda (1/4 tsp per cup of dried beans) and the salt called for in the recipe.
After the two hour cooking, all of the other ingredients can be added and the dish finished according to instructions. Uncover if necessary for the last half hour or so if there is too much liquid.
I tried the above -- brine overnight, pre-cook for two hours in the oven in equal parts water with 1/4 tsp of baking soda and then finish the recipe -- making chili con carne and got spectacular results. Most of the beans remained whole, with unbroken shells, but their insides were creamy smooth, almost buttery. Next stop, Boston Baked Beans.
Try brining them overnight. It may just change your outlook on using dried beans.
Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered, nor can we guarantee we will answer questions immediately
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward

Back to My Childhood
The bush pie maker we had was shaped so that the pies came out looking like little toasted flying saucers. If you got it right, the edges where the two slices of bread had sealed together was crunchy. Inside the peanut butter would have undergone a magical transformation. Where it was closer to the bread, it would have become firm and almost fudge-like while the middle was molten hot. Of course, you could always wait a few minutes to let it cool down a bit, but it was a bit of a dare for me to see how soon I could get to the molten center without it being to hot to eat.
When my parents downsized their home, I got those bush pie makers and enjoyed making them with my own kids until one day the things disappeared. I searched for them everywhere and, when I couldn't find them, I searched the internet for replacements. There were lots of imitators, but none that would make those perfect, round, flying saucer bush pies of my childhood.
Enter Toas-Tite. These folks have produced an authentic replica of the 1949 sandwich toaster of my dreams, packaged in a retro box complete with reprints of original instruction and recipe booklets.
You can fill them with pretty much anything. The recipes include meat pies, chicken pies, bologna, grilled cheese, apple pie and even pirogi! Or you can make up recipes of your own. Add a piece of chocolate to peanut butter to make Reese's Pies. Make a Bush Pie 'Monsieur' by filling it with ham, Gruyère cheese and some Dijon mustard. Tuna melt? Tuna, mayo, salt pepper and Swiss cheese. An 'Elvis'? Peanut butter, mashed banana and crumbled bacon. The combinations are endless.
Next stop, family week up at the lake (typical Saskatchewanian, saying "the lake", like there is only one!) and introducing my six-year old grandson to the joys of Toas-Tite Bush Pies. I can hardly wait!
Due to the volume of questions received, not all can be answered, nor can we guarantee we will answer questions immediately
© Lost Hobbit Enterprises 2004 onward
Posted by Dave on May 05, 2013 | Permalink | Comments (0)
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